10 Pack LM2596 DC-DC Buck Converter Step Down Module Power Supply DIP Output 1.25V-30V 3A

Summary:- Drops 14-12v to 6.5v and holds the output at the set point across that range.- This board is cheaper than the switching voltage regulator component alone.- Can it really be an authentic LM2496S - who knows, do we care?- Basic reference circuitry with an adjustable potentiometer - right for more, left for less.-- For fixed applications (like mine) you could nuke that pot and slap in a fixed value resistor.- For low power functionality - delete the LED and 102 (1,000 Ohm) resistor.-- You'll lose the 'on' indicator LED and its companion resistor, but Ohms law doesn't lie.-- Post operation, no load power use dropped from 0.010A to 0.007A - no puns, that's a 30% improvement.- Dodging name brand over pricing.- There are probably better ways to do this, don't be hatin'.Using this device to step down 14-12v to 6.5v to power remote trail cameras with slightly more available 12v deep cycle batteries vs the 6v alternative. Testing on the bench, no-load showed this device was capable of performing as advertised. I don't have a scope so I can't comment on output noise, still chunked a MLCC (better capacitor) on flipside of the board across the existing output cap - it was 'used' so whatever, gave myself an 'E' for low-ESR. - I'll digress.Generally speaking it makes sense from a user/support perspective to go with the manufacturer 'name brand' accessories for these remote units. But I couldn't resist the penny pinching backside of mine to not go DIY on this one - and you'll see why if you choose to hang in here for another paragraph (or so).For a quantity of 10x at this time, these boards are $1.35/each - the LM2596S alone, is $2.50+ component from the component superstores mouser or digi-key. Most likely this is a ghost shift LM2596S, thank you (big semiconductor corp here) for doing business with China and/or letting the design slip, now I'm doing business with them. I only feel slightly guilty, but you're a bunch of penny pinching trolls too so don't even.Now that the ethics, China, and money bag corporation rants are set aside my fiscal justification for going this route:- OEM part (connectors, cable, regulator, and plug) cost $14.99+TAX- This part, some janky-as copper clad aluminum cable, and the wrong sized plugs resulting in a direct connect plus battery spades, cost <$3.00/each.Most likely the OEM did the same thing, but with some ill volume discounts, meaning they're taking your $12 after materials straight to the bank.Keeping my $12, doing this thing - forgot to indicate - yes the battery side will be fused, I don't need a big-as forest fire on my conscience.

I powered two of these so far and as the other users state it takes many turns to get down to 1.5 to 5 V. At low power these will run discontinuous and generate a noisy output that causes the reading on my Fluke DVM to be unstable. TI recommends some kind of filter where a clean output is needed. Adding a 1 ohm resistor in series with a 47 uF 16 V tantalum caused the DVM readings to stabilize.A second concern is the ability of the power source to stand up to the switching current. This device comes with a 100 uF 50V aluminum capacitor on the input which is rather small. When powering from a transformer, rectifier and filter the capacitor must be large enough to keep the 120 Hz ripple low. During most of the 8.3 msec cycle only the filter capacitor is providing current. I recommend the green high frequency low ESR kind for this switcher to draw from. For a 1.5V output I powered from a 7.5 V DC input from a puny 12 Vct 0.5 A transformer. I needed 10,000 uF to hold up the input voltage at 2 A load. As the input voltage drops a buck converter will draw more current, causing 120 Hz ripple to increase to the point the buck converter stops working. A 2200 uF capacitor could not deliver 2 A load.

I was really skeptical because of the huge number of reviews that said that most, if not all 10 pieces were DOA, no matter how many rotations the reviewer said that they turned the potentiometer.My experience with multi-turn potentiometers is that their range is usually somewhere around 15 turns. I connected a 9VDC power source to the "IN" + & - and my DVOM to the output. At first I placed a 470 ohm resistor across the output, but eliminated it later. At first I turned the screw CW probably 15-20 turns with no change in output voltage. I then began turning the screw on the potentiometer CCW and eventually saw the voltage begin to drop. I ran the screw though a range of 1.25V-5VDC and back a couple times. The voltage held steady (dead on) wherever I left it, even for an extended period (5-10 min). I went through the other nine pieces, but before testing each, I turned the potentiometer on them nine turns counterclockwise. In doing that, I found that some of them were already less than the 9VDC the input voltage. The least number of turns that it took to get a reading less than supply was six (CCW) and the most was ten turns CCW with one exception. One of the pieces had to be turned probably 20-25 turns CCW before the voltage dropped from the input voltage.I bought these to use in projects using components like the ESP88266 and Nokia 5110 LCD which recommend 3.3VDC for power and inputs. I think that they should work fine in these applications.

These have been working well as a step down from miscellaneous wall warts to a linear 5v regulator, currently also powering 12v 50mA fan in parallel on the input side with about 350-400mA max flowing through the 7.4V side powering the regulator. THESE ARE NOT THROUGH HOLE PLATED! IF YOU ONLY LIGHTLY TOUCH SOLDER TO A WIRE PUSHED THROUGH (TOP TO BOTTOM) OF THE BOARD IT WILL NOT CONNECT TO THE INPUT. Connection pads are only connected to the circuit on the top of the board. Don't fuss with alligator clips getting occasional power like me. (Alligators worked because it clamped to the pad on both sides of the board)

Great step-down module, twist right to raise voltage and left to lower it. Got it down to precisely 3.0v for L.E.D. lights.

These things supply a reasonable amount of current with a moderate amount of ripple. Easily adjustable to the right voltage, and doesn't sag under reasonable load.