Sperry Instruments GFI6302 GFCI Outlet / Receptacle Tester, Standard 120V AC Outlets, 7 Visual Indication / Wiring Legend, Home & Professional Use, Yellow & Black

I bought this because I already own a different GFCI tester that is frustrating to use. This yellow Sperry one works as a wall tester should - you plug it in, and it CLEARLY shows if all is OK, or else what is wrong. By clearly, I mean there is a light for "CORRECT" that lights up instantly when you plug in. You do not have to turn it on first, it does not require additional batteries of its own, like my other tester does, and the output is clear and non-confusing. This is gold compared to my other tester. Love it, worth every penny.

Easy to use,works perfect

Really handy, I found an extension cord that was wired backwards. The GFI tester is a must have, I discovered that none of my outlets in the garage were protected.

I really do like this device, now that I've figured it out, i know what to expect of it. I took off a star for the lack of clarification on the device about odd readings (readings that are not described)So, I've seen some reviews about light bleeding from one light to another, giving a somewhat confusing reading. This isn't light just bleeding through plastic, the bulbs in there are indeed lighting up but very faintly. I rewired a bunch of outlets, and in the process learned a few things about this device:-It's made very nice, feels good-It Cannot diagnose every problem-The chart does Not describe every possible indication you may see-It Does let you know overall if something is wrong.So, what i mean is that on the device it shows you a list of all possible light configurations. However, two situations are notably missing: all lights on, lights partially on. I've encountered situations where all lights illuminate, but the chart doesn't show this situation. I've also seen variations of lights being on, but only slightly. This is where i think some folks thought it was due to one bright light bleeding into the next light making it seem like it might be on, but it's really an indicator of some other issue. Either way, unless you get two solid orange lights, something isn't right.You might think that they would mention this in the manual. Nope. Nothing. That's really unacceptable for a device intended for electrical work.Overall, this device indicates two things reliably: Everything is OK, or something is Wrong. If you get anything but two solid orange lights, something to some extent is wrong. Even if i get solid light indications, i check everything again with a multimeter. You can get decent ones for around $25, and they will tell you exactly what's going on with the outlet. Why not just get a multimeter? That's certainly an option, but my preference is to have the little tester for blanket sweep checks of everything, marking the bad outlets, then going back and checking the bad ones with the multimeter to see exactly what's going on.Bonus round:Testing an outlet with a multimeter is easy: set it to voltage reading and: red probe to the (hot)small outlet slit, black to the (neutral)big slit. should be 120(ish) volts, then do red to small slit, black to ground (bottom outlet hole), should also be 120v. Then one probe to big slit, the other to ground, should be zero or near zero reading.

Inexpensive, small and essential to have in any home! Most efficient way to troubleshoot electrical outlets and figure out which circuit breakers or reset GFIs to use. Simple to use too!

I've used it for several jobs and haven't even started my major wiring projects.Wanted to install a strong, reliable grab bar in my tub/shower exactly where I wanted it. Didn't want to be limited by the location of the wall studs. Before cutting out the sheetrock in the next room so I could add bracing between the studs I had to 1) locate the wiring precisely so I didn't cut it and 2) make sure it was dead while I was cutting.The sensitivity dial helped me pinpoint the location and route of the wiring. To start, I set it sensitive enough so that I could detect live wiring behind the sheetrock from about a foot away. I continued to dial the sensitivity back so that I had to be within an inch or two of the wiring for the sensor to respond (with a red blinking light and loud chirping sound). Then by moving the sensor along the wall, I could very precisely trace the run of the wiring, marking it with blue painter's tape.Before cutting into the sheetrock I flipped off what I was fairly sure was the correct breaker. To make sure, I dialed up the sensitivity of the sensor and swept it all over the wall where my painter's tape was. No response from the sensor indicated that I did flip the correct breaker, so it was safe to cut into the sheetrock. (In this situation you can hold the sensor near a lamp to make certain it will respond to current.)Silliest use I've made of the sensor was to make sure my crockpot was on. I'm going to upgrade my kitchen circuits. In the meantime the few kitchen receptacles are on one circuit, the electric range is on it's own. The range has a standard "convenience" outlet for temporarily plugging in an appliance, but it's old and "iffy". I started the crockpot on the regular kitchen circuit but had to move it and plug it into the range's convenience outlet. The crockpot doesn't have a power light, so I wasn't sure it was getting electricity. Maybe the plug needed a jiggle? Got my Sperry adjustable volt sensor out and sure enough, there was power in the crockpot power cord. Dinner was saved.The adjustability is what makes this so versatile. I've fiddled with the sensitivity dial and gotten it so that I could tell the hot from the neutral side of the power cord on a table fan. Touch the sensor to one side of the cord, no response. Touch it to the other side, flashing and chirping. Take a close look at the cord, and the no-response side has the telltale "neutral" ridge.It's a well-made and useful tool. Could save your life, could save your wiring. Could save your dinner.

It's simple and it works well